slimane interview

All I do is all I am. HS: I like walking in Paris for hours and hours, crossing the Seine, walking through the left bank. Five Years After the Farfetch Deal, What’s Next for Browns? Becoming someone else on the pretext that what I did in the past has been digested or imitated? Iggy knew really well Curtis Harding’s music for instance, or Cherry Glazerr, which was remarkable. It’s a pity that the city is eager to close down interesting places like those and turn its back on Parisian nights. They are somehow part of this Neo Glam movement we have seen emerging in California (Foxygen etc). Tell us about your relationship with black. It's been taken over and the authenticity is slowly getting lost because the megalopolis appeals to the world and the youth. Respect is to preserve the integrity of everyone, to recognise things that belong to another person with honesty and discernment. Later on with my life, I experimented with different creative cycles, and got involved with emerging sounds and  communities in music. The magic of the street lamps, the neons in the cafés, the sparkling Parisian youth and the energy of the streets. LUKE LEITCH: Hallo Hedi – thanks so much for your Los Angeles portfolio and for the chance to conduct this interview. The unthinkable idea of no longer knowing silence was unbearable to me. For an obscure reason, there was such an uproar when I decided to design from Los Angeles. It is normal. I love Paris by night. I had an artist residency there for 3 years. HS: It was essential to strengthen the ateliers and to add a tailoring atelier for the men’s and women’s collections, by extension. Respect is to preserve the integrity of everyone, to recognise things that belong to another person with honesty and discernment. I have been to many specialists in the United States, in Europe, but there’s no cure. I don’t have any private accounts on social media. However you keep doing what you always did with authenticity, determination, and dedication regardless of forgery and imitation. LF: To what extent does your vision differ from Phoebe Philo’s? – Facebook The, I would float in everything. When I started to design in the late 90’s, my casting was probably disturbing for the audience. One day I could wake up and feel I need to start a different chapter, however this has been a lasting creative cycle, over few decades, so many souvenirs, encounters and projects I am deeply attached to. Will the next social networks evolve towards a new realism where there will be no alterations and touch ups? On va directement commencer avec, certes, une question un peu bateau mais : concrètement, qu’est-ce qui a changé dans ta vie depuis The Voice et la sortie de ton album ? Slimane : Tout a changé depuis cette aventure, je vis mon rêve d’enfant ! The unthinkable idea of no longer knowing silence was unbearable to me. Since his appointment as the artistic director of Celine, Hedi Slimane has not said a word to the press. Most of the subjects I photographed during the last 25 years have something in common, an artistic energy, a strong mind and distinctive personality. You don't shake things up by avoiding making waves. My photography website is displayed on Instagram, but the page is not linked to me. Et oui, j’ai, en effet, accepté un rôle au cinéma aux côtés de Sabrina Ouazani. Tu n’as pas peur de prendre la grosse tête ? LF: Nowadays, youth seems to be hypnotised by the notion of millennials, generation 2.0… What is your definition of youth? What’s important is always now. It’s as if we have just discovered the tenuous and fundamental link between youth and fashion or the link between youth and music. HS: I’ve always been really sensitive to this notion of high quality, this inherent savoir-faire of the house. Why not designing from here and define an aesthetic around California? All the clothes were “boxy.”. My mum knew how to cut jackets “au chic” without a pattern. Former Reformation CEO Deemed Not 'Racist’ as Workplace Reckoning Continues, What a ‘K-Shaped Recovery’ Means for Luxury Fashion. I presume the juxtaposition of distinctive scenes, the sense of isolation of each creative pocket, is what makes California rather unique, compared to all other territories I have explored over the last two decades (London was of course like this in the late 70s / early 80s, a juxtaposition of music “ tribes “, with specific stylistic conventions). I almost feel like her godfather at this point: she, and her brother to some degree, have been part of our little music community for quite some time and I document her all the time. All the youths of the world are different and yet they are alike. Barack Obama’s presidential victory played an important role, it meant something promising. I’m not sensitive to beauty, but to energy and personality. Slimane : [Rires] Non, je travaille actuellement sur mon deuxième album. At Celine, the weight of the past is not as strong as at Dior or Saint Laurent. HEDI SLIMANE: Very early on, probably at age 13, I had this fantasy of working for Le Monde, the French national newspaper as a reporter. There have been collections dedicated to black at Saint Laurent, particularly in 1999 when I launched the laser cut leather and later at Dior Homme with the Berlin collections. It is normal. Growing … The full portfolio Los Angeles by Hedi Slimane is in the pages of August’s Vogue Italia. On a side note, I don’t know why I did mention a brand under my name back in the early 2000’s? Casting is the key to everything. Why is there this almost obsessive desire to graphically mark your territory? It’s a previously unseen photograph that you took back in November 2015, whereas most of the rest of this portfolio was shot this year. Will the next social networks evolve towards a new realism where there will be no alterations and touch ups? Qu’est-ce qu’on peut te souhaiter ? No matter the time in history, they are this pure energy, the exaltation of every moment and the emotion of the skin, living their lives at full speed. At Celine, I come back to the classic perception of my job from when I started 20 years ago, without any nostalgia. Going back to design will always be an option, as long as I stay loyal to my principles, and keep protecting the integrity of my work. By contrast, Donald Trump’s election created a climate of uncertainty so strong that you cannot escape it. This became clearer later, after 2008. This tinnitus apparently comes from a post-traumatic stress disorder, without acoustic shock. En tout cas nous, nous te souhaitons que du positif et remercions du temps que tu as pu nous consacrer. In 2011, there was clearly a condescending and abrasive attitude in the industry toward Los Angeles and California. Those things always end up getting sorted out, one way or another. Paris may be the only capital left in the world where the word flâneur still make sense. HEDI SLIMANE: Very early on, probably at age 13, I had this fantasy of working for Le Monde, the French national newspaper as a reporter. c.f e p.iva reg.imprese trib. Californians have a very different notion of memory. Thank God, my friends and loved ones have been really helpful. Recklessness has taken a new meaning through creation. Paris, circa 1997 at Saint Laurent, was when I started designing inside this small creative community coming out, later called the French touch. LF: Has the fact that the house of Celine was located in a 17th-century Parisian hôtel particulier been crucial? LL: Whether in Paris, London, Berlin or now LA you become profoundly embedded in your places of work. How Hedi Slimane Presaged Fashion's Instagram Obsession. #BoFLIVE: Are Marketplaces the New Department Stores? HS: Surf and skate cultures have been one of the main topics of my photography since I started the California cycle in 2007. Slimane : J’essaie effectivement de [il accentue ce point] faire attention à ça et je suis bien entouré par ma famille et mes amis… Du coup je pense avoir gardé la tête sur les épaules ! All fundamentals must be carefully considered without losing sight of the long term goal. I don’t have a personal Instagram account. I would float in everything. All the youths of the world are different and yet they are alike. HS: It is hard to say. Before I had a home, I used to stay for months at the Chateau Marmont which typically was a really different place then, very private, filled with young actors or directors living there all year around. We can break free of it more easily. I found my style more than 20 years ago, unless it's the other way around. I am deeply attached to those years, my beloved team and the beautiful house of Yves Saint Laurent. Dans une interview accordée à "NRJ", Slimane est revenu sur le jour où il a laissé penser à tous ses fans qu'il allait se séparer de Vitaa... Souvenez-vous. HS: I met Arrow some years ago, she was still very young and captivating, and wanted to focus on Music. And the ambiguity of that line says something about me as a teenager. It belongs to me, and in return, I am compelled to it. Growing up with a really oblique idea of gender representation, I always thought I was somehow on an alternative route, and I was political about it. At first it got out of control, and I went through a very dark period, with phases of anxiety that were difficult to bear. It was a spiral, a daily suffering. HS: I don’t spend a lot of time in Los Angeles. The key to everything is to preserve the enchantment. His aesthetic shares a kinship with yours, I think. Finally, a style is always linked to a time, a period, it resonates with it. Since moving there in 2007 the Parisian photographer and sometime creative director has become deeply embedded in the city’s creative subcultures. I have this tradition in me. Social media is a fantastic revolution and will always be a bit like the Wild West. I am very attached to it. Baldessari is an especially interesting subject because his work has long used photography to interrogate our assumptions of artistic value. Luke Leitch, Vogue Italia, August 2017, n.804, pag.32 2.700.000 euro i.v. How do you go about choosing who you shoot? The State of Fashion 2021 Preview: Can the Industry Rebound Next Year? Your photographs show a rawness and almost anarchic punk attitude particular to the LA scene that goes right back to Tony Alva in the 70’s and 80’s. A designer is someone who expresses himself authentically through what he feels. Maybe doing this job is a way of endlessly continuing this family tradition. C’est une formidable expérience qui va commencer dès mai prochain, j’ai hâte ! I know that you have, as of this year, returned your focus to photography again full time. Foto di Hedi Slimane, “California, 2013”. LF: The black colour that every major couturier or artistic director expresses his difference through, has become almost standardised. A visionary, Slimane draws his creative strength from his passion for photography, fashion and the rock scene. Musically and currently from Zac Carper the charismatic singer of Fidlar, a skate cult band, to Yann Pessino, this is an alternative background that endlessly define the conventions of youth cultures in California and influence youth all over the world. I see them as artists. HS: I really like Instagram when it comes to engagement and artistic projects. Youth is gracefulness, freedom of speech and recklessness. All the clothes were “boxy.”. Slimane: En exclusivité, le vainqueur de l’édition 2016 de The Voice a accepté de nous accorder une interview.Le chanteur nous dévoile ses aspirations pour le futur et ce que l’émission lui a apporté. It's orthodoxy, quite simply. His surprise appointment at the helm of the house, which was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana, propelled the French designer into the spotlight again. HS: By being completely honest with everything I do. As a child, I would rather have been playing in the park than at the Marché Saint-Pierre. The lights still remain, though. It happened over a year ago now, when I started hearing obsessive and persisting noises one morning. Can you tell us about the vibe? LF: What about Lady Gaga, who has 29.5 million followers on Instagram and sparked excitement all over the internet with your first Celine bag? HS: I gave her this bag in private as a present, because she’s a long-time friend. My perception of fashion has always been influenced by a certain classicism and the legacy of couture, the spirit of Paris, where I was born and grew up, day and night. LL: Where is the best place in LA to seek out progressive music? LL: I’ve been listening to Curtis Harding’s album after seeing him in your portfolio – he’s fantastic! HS: I was lucky enough to find that place when I arrived. At a time when appropriation has become the norm, pursuing my way through a silhouette or a recognisable picture at first sight is at the heart of my life. The current essay for Italian Vogue is somehow an evolution of this generation, ten years after. Now it’s a completely different story – French and American houses are regular visitors to show events at the city and the aesthetic of LA’s style vernacular (in a great part thanks to you) has become globally recognizable and aspired to. You own it, it’s your trademark, and there is besides a record for it. I still live in Los Angeles, but it is different. I decided to shift to California in 2007, at the tail of English rock and guitar bands period. It's about putting the church back at the centre of the village. HS: Music is the syntax behind my style in photography, but also, behind all of my fashion design for the past 20 years. Consistency, rigour, accuracy — this is what is meaningful to me. J’aimerais d’ailleurs présenter le premier extrait de ce deuxième album lors de la finale de The voice cette année. We also brought on the expertise of pattern making and draping for eveningwear and couture. I saw a video interview you did with Tim Blanks for style.com many years ago in which you mentioned the possibility of creating a brand or house of your own – would that ever interest you? HS: The style, the personal style in this case, is a discipline made of renunciations. Regione Puglia @ Photo Vogue Festival 2018, by And often – although not exclusively – that connection is made through music… It is like a secret society of some kind, not driven by any commercial end, or any desire to publicize what they do, quite on the contrary. Curtis is extremely talented. LF: Cities have always been important to you — Berlin (Dior Homme), London (for its punk rock scene), Los Angeles for Saint Laurent and “California Song,” the exhibition that took place at the Moca in 2011. Most of the musicians in this essay were photographed at home or in their sound studio or music venues, and are wearing their own stage clothes. There is still a lot to do to protect everyone's balance and truth, so there is always respect. All of this was anticipated. It’s acknowledging who you are and who you’re not. The selfie-craze is an anthropological topic in and of itself. The youth before was no less interesting and engaged than this one, and the youth after will be just as important. HS: Just like many people, I have severe chronic tinnitus. Paris is very specific when it comes to "handmade," which is incredibly chic. LF: How do you extend your Californian chronicle? Los Angeles is always evolving, and there are music communities that keep emerging all over the state. La rencontre avec Léa a été une superbe rencontre et j’espère qu’il y en aura bien d’autres à venir… Sinon, j’aimerais beaucoup travailler avec Sting ou Youssou N’Dour ! By photographing every moment of my life. A perpetual photo reportage. The ones she would tailor for me were perfect. Would you ever leave it again? Placing Turkish Design Talent on the Global Fashion Map at Istanbul Fashion Week, L'Oreal Sales Rebound After Lockdowns Ease, Live Blog: Hermès Sales Rebound with 7% Growth in Third Quarter. My street, indie, and slender “androgyne” models were for many from another planet. I guess I have changed, but more likely I was sleepwalking. Francesca Marani, When Ethics meets Aesthetics • The exhibition, by © 2020 The Business of Fashion. The young skater opening this portfolio is significant of my style. Comme tu le dis toi-même, tu as mis “10 ans” à sortir cet album. I also defend a French fashion mindset that is almost formal and is linked to my youth, to what I was taught, to the people I have met — Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, when I first started in my years at Dior. Slimane : Il faut rester soi-même et cultiver sa différence. It will perpetuate at Celine. Can you redefine it within a context where fashion embraces mixed collections and inclusivity is on the rise? His first Celine collection, which will be shown in Paris on September 28, is one of the most anticipated of the Spring/Summer 2019 season, as it marks the designer's return to fashion two years after leaving. We go through hundreds of samples in our research to find the perfect black jacket or the perfect little black dress. LL: Is LA your forever city? For more information read our Terms & Conditions and Privacy Policy. Beauty was never the subject, as opposed to something heroically real, poetically eccentric or singular about each character, a magnificent chaos. Le chanteur nous dévoile ses aspirations pour le futur et ce que l’émission lui a apporté. Des rêves en parallèle de ceux que tu as nourri pour ta carrière d’auteur et interprète ? There is still something about California that makes sense for me, that simply feels right. Historically, as soon as you alter the silhouette, people react to that. Our vision is naturally distinct. But it had to be done. He introduces the “secret society” of LA musicians, artists, skaters and surfers that feature in his Vogue Italia portfolio and explains how the city came to inflect his vision, both as a photographer and during his tenure at Yves Saint Laurent.

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